Preventing Winter Damage to Mud Pumps: Drain, Rinse, Dry, and Store Properly

The first thing to do is to remove the mud and water from the pump andpipelines entirely. It is through this that most people neglect the point. First,unplug the power cord, find the drain plug at the lowest part of the pumpbody, and then unscrew it. Many mud pumps have a drain outlet specifically located below the volute. If that is not the case, just angle the outlet down and give the pump a few shakes to and fro until no more mud or water can be squeezed out. Merely emptying the pump will not suffice; the inlet and outlet conduits must be cleared as well. To loosen any water that has gotten stuck at the bends, lift one end, and if you really want to be sure that they are completely dry, blow through the pipes with compressed air. You will want to check for leftover material around the valve core if you are using a foot valve or a check valve because if those places freeze solid, the valve disc might get torn when the power is switched on in the spring.After this step, the entire pump is truly "hollow," preventing it from cracking even during a sudden, significant temperature drop.

Mud pumps are not only susceptible to ice expansion, but also to the hardening of mud residue. Dried mud hardens like stone, sealing the impeller and pump casing. Forcing a start the following year will almost certainly burn out the coils or break the shaft. After the pumps are empty immediately flush them with clean water! Flush: 1) Pour clean water into pump outlet; 2) Seal ends of pump by using hands to cover them; and 3) Shake pump several times up/down & then empty water out. Continue rinsing pumps until clear of all contaminants (typically 2-3 rinses may be needed). Prior to storing pumps, all excess moisture must be removed. Drying off all visible wet areas can be done by absorbing moisture from the surface of the pump with a dry cloth. Next, allow the pump to sit upright in a properly ventilated location for 1⁄2 days to let it air dry; or use a cool hair dryer to blow air into the impeller housing until you cannot feel any moisture on your hand. After it is completely dry, put a few drops of silicone-based lubricant or pump protectant onto the mechanical seal end-avoid using any form of regular machine oil as this could distort any rubber parts. After applying the lubricant or pump protectant to the mechanical seal, manually rotate the impeller (4-5 full rotations) to coat evenly with a layer of the lubricant. Doing this will help keep the seal ring from sticking to the shaft in cold temperature and prevent a direct leak caused by the cutting action of dry friction when you start the pump.

Many people try to save time on storage, but this often leads to problems. Optimally, that's a space with above-freezing temperatures indoors-like a basement, workshop, or heated garage. There is a condition however, if you can only keep it in an outside shed the pump must be 100 per cent water free.Even a trace of moisture repeatedly freezing and thawing will damage the coating and can even cause fine cracks. Place the pump body vertically, not on its side, to prevent the impeller from deforming due to pressure on one side. Coil the cable following its natural curve and gently secure it with cable ties. Avoid sharp bends. Before wrapping the terminal joints, you should first rub a little insulating grease on them. This will stop the moisture from getting to the joints. Just to be sure, do not use automotive antifreeze in your pump. This type of antifreeze has substances that can eat away at the nitrile rubber seals. So, even though it feels like a quick fix, you will end up with a flooded pump when the seals give out, and it will be too late then. If you have a pump with oil, do not miss this chance to see if the oil chamber is okay. White, frothy oil means there is a small leak. You must change the oil and the seals right away; that will save you a lot of money compared to a repair after it freezes.